Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
